Pro Tip: For a flawless, professional finish, your counter rail should be installed completely flush with the top edge of your vertical featheredge boards. If you are using wooden fence posts with pre-cut notches, the counter rail should slot neatly into the shallow rectangular cutout right at the top of the post.

Fixing Rule: Secure the counter rail to the inside of your framework first. Next, nail your vertical featheredge boards directly to it. Finally, pop your weathered capping rail over the top and drive your fasteners down through the capping, straight through the featheredge tips, and deep into the counter rail underneath. This triple-layer interlocking method creates an unyielding top edge that will never twist or rattle loose.

Pro Tip: Never nail a capping rail directly onto the top of your vertical fence boards without internal support—doing so leaves air gaps that trap water and causes nails to pop out as the wood expands.

The Professional Method: Always run a flat Fencing Counter Rail horizontally right along the top back-edge of your featheredge boards first. Once your boards are sandwiched tightly against the counter rail, place this chamfered capping rail over the flat top. Drive high-torque, exterior-grade screws or hot-dipped galvanised nails vertically straight down through the thick center apex of the capping rail, passing through the board tips, and sinking deep into the counter rail below. This interlocking design will never twist or blow off in a storm!

Pro Tip: When building a standard 1.8m high fence line, you should set this 2.4m post roughly 600mm into the ground. Dig your post hole approximately300mm wide to ensure a robust concrete envelope entirely surrounds the timber base.

Critical Step: If you cut the post to length or square off the top, always apply a dedicated end-grain preservative fluid (such as Ensele or a similar brush-on treatment) to the freshly exposed wood fibers. To maximize the life of the post, never bury a cut end down into the soil—always keep the original factory-treated end at the bottom of the hole. Use 1.5 to 2 bags of rapid-setting Postcrete per hole for an instant, immovable anchor.

Pro Tip: To maximize the high wind-resistance of this rectangular post, always install it with the wider 125mm face pointing down the line of the fence (perpendicular to the panels). This alignment uses the post’s maximum structural depth to fight wind leverage.

Critical End-Grain Rule: To build a stable 1.8m high boundary, set this 2.4m post roughly 600mm deep into a 300mm wide hole filled with rapid-setting Postcrete. If you cut the top of the post to form a weather-shedding slope or point, you must apply an end-grain preservative fluid to the raw wood fibers immediately. Always keep the uncut factory end at the bottom of the hole to protect the base from underground rot.

Pro Tip: Even though this brown lap panel is pressure-treated against moisture, the horizontal end-grain of the bottom boards should never sit directly flat on damp soil or lawn grass. Wicking moisture directly from the earth will drastically shorten the life of any timber panel.

The Professional Method: Always install a matching Brown Timber or Concrete Gravel Board horizontally along the ground baseline first, and mount your 3ft lap panel directly on top of it. If you are fixing to timber posts, secure the panel using 2 or 3 heavy-duty 50mm Galvanised Panel Clips per side. This completely decouples the panel frame from damp earth, prevents wind wobble, and makes it incredibly easy to slide the panel out in the future if your garden layout changes!

Pro Tip: Even though this brown lap panel is pressure-treated against moisture, the horizontal end-grain of the bottom boards should never sit directly flat on damp soil or lawn grass. Wicking moisture directly from the earth will drastically shorten the life of any timber panel.

The Professional Method: Always install a matching Brown Timber or Concrete Gravel Board horizontally along the ground baseline first, and mount your 4ft lap panel directly on top of it. If you are fixing to timber posts, secure the panel using 2 or 3 heavy-duty 50mm Galvanised Panel Clips per side. This completely decouples the panel frame from damp earth, prevents wind wobble, and makes it incredibly easy to slide the panel out in the future if your garden layout changes!

Pro Tip: Even though this brown lap panel is pressure-treated against moisture, the horizontal end-grain of the bottom boards should never sit directly flat on damp soil or lawn grass. Wicking moisture directly from the earth will drastically shorten the life of any timber panel.

The Professional Method: Always install a matching Brown Timber or Concrete Gravel Board horizontally along the ground baseline first, and mount your 5ft lap panel directly on top of it. If you are fixing to timber posts, secure the panel using 2 or 3 heavy-duty 50mm Galvanised Panel Clips per side. This completely decouples the panel frame from damp earth, prevents wind wobble, and makes it incredibly easy to slide the panel out in the future if your garden layout changes!

Pro Tip: To maximize the high wind-resistance of this rectangular notched post, always install it with the wider 125mm face pointing down the line of the fence (perpendicular to the panels), ensuring the V-notches face outward toward the front of your boundary line.

Critical Sizing & End-Grain Rule: To build a stable 1.8m high closeboard boundary, set this 2.4m post roughly 600mm deep into a 300mm wide hole filled with rapid-setting Postcrete. If you trim the top of the post to form a custom weather slope, you must apply an end-grain preservative fluid to the raw wood fibers immediately. Always keep the uncut factory end at the bottom of the hole to protect the base from underground rot.

Pro Tip: Even though this brown lap panel is pressure-treated against moisture, the horizontal end-grain of the bottom boards should never sit directly flat on damp soil or lawn grass. Wicking moisture directly from the earth will drastically shorten the life of any timber panel.

The Professional Method: Always install a matching Brown Timber or Concrete Gravel Board horizontally along the ground baseline first, and mount your 6ft lap panel directly on top of it. If you are fixing to timber posts, secure the panel using 2 or 3 heavy-duty 50mm Galvanised Panel Clips per side. This completely decouples the panel frame from damp earth, prevents wind wobble, and makes it incredibly easy to slide the panel out in the future if your garden layout changes!

Pro Tip: Sinking a 150mm square structural post requires a substantial foundation footprint to properly anchor its weight capacity and resist wind leverage.

The Professional Method: For a standard installation, dig a hole measuring at least 350mm to 400mm wide by a minimum depth of 600mm to 750mm deep. Drop a 2-inch layer of gravel or drainage ballast at the bottom of the hole to allow moisture to drain cleanly away from the base-cut end-grain. Position and brace the post completely plumb. Fill the void using 2 to 3 bags of rapid-setting Blue Circle Postcrete, layering it with water according to instructions. Use a trowel to taper the top of the concrete wet mix into a smooth, downward-facing dome above ground level, forcing rainwater to shed completely away from the timber base.